How old-school can you go? Drastik Plastik Orcs old maybe? (with old school basing tutorial)

People occasionally wonder why I spent time painting ancient models. After all I could also use it to paint the newer, better looking kits. Most of the time I point out I like Oldhammer's unique style just as much (sometimes even more) than the newer models. Sometimes its just pure nostalgia. The Drastik Plastik Orcs of 'yore fall completely in the nostalgia category.

Never fear, the Drastik Plastik Orcs are here....wait up, that should be: Cower in Fear, the Drastik Plastik Orcs are here!

Way back in February '86 these orcs where the second plastic kit ever released by Games Workshop (having been preceded by the Psychostyrene Dwarfs in the summer of '85). Back then you paid 75 pence for a blister plack with three orc sprues (about £1.86 in 2021 money, still a very nice price actually). Each sprue contained a choice of three heads, a scimitar or spear for the right hand and an axe or dagger for the left. Here's someone else's wonderful writeup with a picture of the sprue. 

My mom said she was very proud of me....that's something :)

Now I have a rather special connection with these old orcs. One of the first models I ever painted was a Drastik Plastik Orc. Pictured above from both front an back in all its dusty glory. It sits in my display case (slightly to the back) as its always nice to remember I'm learning as I go along. 

I know it feels counter-intuitive to give orcs a bath, but you should do it anyway.

As the linked article above states, these models go for insane e-bay prices when blistered. I guess the blister...lovers... don't really care about detail and quality, they just want their precious toys to sit unused in boxes (to each his own, but what a waste). I bought these ten (for a rather reasonable price) pre-assembled with one missing its right arm and another missing its left. Luckily I actually had an ancient left arm in my bitsbox. I used a bit of creative cutting and an almost as ancient Space Orc arm to fix the other model. I needed a banner bearer anyway and the Space Orc arm helped model that one (with a bit of plastic tubing). After the quick conversion work, I gave the models a wash in water with dish detergent to brush away the dust and grime of the past 35 years and primed the lot.

There's something very special about highlighting an orcs nose and cheekbones, painting his eyes and then covering the entire front of the model with a huge banner. Ah well, the dice gods know...

Painting these classic models up is part joy, part horror. Its a joy because they paint up quick, there's hardly any detail to take care of. Its a bit of a horror because they are extremely hard to paint up nice as there is no detail to hide my lack of skill behind. Come for the horror of my still way too fat edge highlights after all these years. Stay for my lazy, nah I'm not going to paint blocks and flames on the coats. I'll sit through another 'how to do paint proper edge highlights' tutorial soon, I promise. 

WIP shot with the banner freshly attached and the bases covered with (my) standard Vallejo Dark Earth texture paint washed with watered down Agrax Earthshade.

Painting the banner was quick, easy and fun. I followed my own advice and printed a suitable banner from the 1988 3rd Citadel Compendium Baneful Banners page (you can find it here). In this case I covered the print with some matt varnish (left over in my airbrush) to give it a bit of body (note to self: that did not work very well). Then I used a German Grey to paint they outline of the skull. As the banner was way too oversized (even for an oversized banner) I used this step to remove all surrounding detail that wouldn't fit. Then I used a dark brown to trace over the internal lines of the skull. I followed up with mixes of Ushabti Bone and a brown to get the details and color variations as right as I could get them. I also painted over the red rune on the original banner. Mostly because I didn't feel like cracking open a pot of red for some insane reason.

Old school basing in three steps: texture and paint base, add PVA, go wild with flock and clumps.

With the orcs more or less finished I ran into another problem: my Mordheim Turf tufts are almost all gone, the local GW store is closed due to the lockdown and there are rather serious delivery problems from the UK (lets not go into the politics of that problem). Well when life give you lemons, pray to Grandfather Nurgle for absolution (or something). Oh yeah and simply go old school with your basing. Here you can follow two schools of thought. The first is sand the base, paint it Goblin Green and drybrush it a bit. The second is to go fancy. I choose fancy (no Goblin Green bases here, thank you very much).

Those old GW flock tubs where just so incredibly handy when working with the stuff. I miss them. 

When you go fancy you can once again follow two schools of thought. First you can sculpt plants and mushrooms with Green Stuff and cover the base with then. Lets say I did not have the time for that one (and not discuss lack of talent here), so I went for style two: just fill the base with different coverings. To do that you need some clump foliage (Woodland Scenics is your best bet), a bit of Icelandic Moss and some static flock. I still use GW's old containers to hold my 'work-flock' although the original flock is long gone. For the green I throw any leftover green flock in that tub to get a properly varied mix.  

Step 1: start by adding a bit of climp foliage to the PVA. 

I use an old or  cheap (or both) brush to cover the base in PVA. Then add small bits of clump foliage in random patterns. This will give the base a lot of body, as if the model is standing in dense undergrowth. As an added bonus, it will hide most of the feet which some us only half paint because we're lazy (I'm not naming names here (cough cough, point at self)). 

Step 2: add more clump foliage and small bits of Icelandic moss.

I use both green and orange-brown clumps to create some variety on the base. Next I use tiny shredded bits of Icelandic Moss to get a bit of variance in the thicker base coverings. These days its all the rage in offices (at least here in the Netherlands) to cover walls with Icelandic Moss panels (to dampen sound). This means you can get very nicely priced sample bags for your 'wall covering project' at the bigger floral and office specialist. I've taken advantage of that trend and stocked up for the foreseeable decades (as I apparently should have done with my Mordheim Turf).

Step 3: add regular static flock.

If you've added enough clump foliage to your base you finish up by holding the model over your static flock container. Pick up some flock between thumb and forefinger and sprinkle it on the base (you should take all these steps quickly enough to keep the PVA wet and tacky). 

Step 5: push down on all the flock (and uncover the feet a bit).

Finish basing all your models. When you get to the last one. Take the first base you covered and use the back of your old brush to push down on all the material. This will make it stick properly. The spunge-like quality of the clump foliage will make it rise a bit more after you're done pushing. Also use this moment to uncover the larger parts of the model's feet. If you want to go really wild, you could go through all the steps again after this has dried. You can also add in a few (allready painted) skulls, small leaves and whatnot. I didn't, I wanted to take pictures, write a blog and move on to the next project :)

All in all this has been one hell of a fun trip through nostalgia lane. And I actually like how the models add a bit of extra Old School presence to my ever growing Greenskin horde. 

Bonus shot @Lasgunpacker. A car door indeed :)

Get to the choppa!