Yesterday I completed my
Orruk Warboss on Wyvern that included the fancy base you can see below. It is supposed to look like a ruined bridge or highway (or something similar). As it was rather easy and fun to build I thought people might like a tutorial on this. Luckily I actually remembered to take some pictures while scratch-building.
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Never mind true line of sight and hiding behind terrain: a big model needs a big base, it just looks right. |
To start off I took an leftover bit of dense polystyrene and used a scalpel and a metal ruler to cut three pieces to size. As this was going to be a ruin, the process did not have to be very precise. I used my scalpel to cut edges in the sides of the long pieces to sink my road into.
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Don't drink and model....or do and make silly mistakes. |
For the sharper readers among you, yes I made a stupid mistake. Both side pieces have their edge on the same side. I could easily solve this by making a new piece but that would require a walk back to the shed. As I was going for quick&dirty I just cut the offending bit off and glued it back on at the right side.
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Quick and dirty building technique #1: ignore mistakes, just keep on building. |
Next up on this very precise project closing the rest of the rectangle.
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Add more polystyrene. |
With the basic shape complete I cut a few pieces of cork to size. I spotted this technique on a model in my local GW and decided to steal it.
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Stacking bits of cork makes for a nice looking ruined roadway. |
With this completed I used the rest of the polystyrene to cut a few loose blocks.
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If only the Egyptians new about polystyrene, we would've had so many more pyramids (and found no remnants of any of them, but that is another story). |
I proceeded to use a pencil to mark block shapes in my bridge. With a bit of extra carelessness this quickly turns into rough blockwork (mental note: next time I should be slightly neater).
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Later on I used a q-tip to flatten out the globs of PVA. |
I stacked the blocks I cut earlier around the back, hiding the ugly joins.
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Rough ugly edges are no problem when making ruined stonework. |
I cut 2 cm by 1 cm bits of 1mm cardboard to cover the top of my construction.
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Cardboard is the best option for making tiles and shingles. |
After measuring them on top I took them off again, marked out where they hung over the edge of the block and cut those bits off with a scalpel. O made sure to keep the bits I cut off handy as I needed them later.
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Add damage and remember to keep the bits you cut off. |
Next I covered the top in PVA and glued the tiles on it.
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With the tiling in place, this thing is coming together. |
After that I added sand to the bottom of the base, used a leftover bit from a Skaven kit (for no real good reason, it was sticking out of the bits box). I also added the cut off bits of tile to the front of the bridge.
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Add sand to give it a sense of place in the world. |
At this point I felt a bit of regret at not putting siding on the project. That's what happens if you fail to do any planning whatsoever. I picked up a few mismatched bits of polystyrene and used glue and pins to stick them to the sides.
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Add sides to cover up for my lack of planning. |
I finished the first part of the construction process off by covering the entire base in watered down PVA. This is always a bit tricky when you've marked out patterns in polystyrene as the PVA tends to fill up the carved space again. In the end I took a bit of extra care to remove extra glue from the stone pattern.
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Cover everything in PVA to give it a bit of durability. |
To finish off I added some skulls from the GW's
Citadel Skulls box.
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As this is Warhammer: add skulls. |
After an afternoon's worth of drying time I came back in in the evening and used some liquid green stuff to hide the needles on the siding of the bridge and cover some other gaps and mistakes.
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Use some liquid green stuff to cover up more mistakes. |
After this I basecoated the base with the airbrush (don't base coat polystyrene with a rattlecan as it will melt (unless that is your intention).
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Airbrush Vallejo Base Coat (black) on it be sure to hit all the recesses. |
With the base coat dry I painted the bridge Mechanicus Standard Grey, washed it with Agrax Earthshade and gave it a drybrush of Dawnstone. After that I added Athonian Camoshade washes to the sides and to bits of stone to add a mossy look. The sand is painted Dryad Bark and drybrushed with Tyrant Skull.
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For the future: don't forgetto snap pictures of the painting in progress. |
I painted the skulls Rakarth Flesh, washed with Vallejo Sepia and highlighted with Ushabti Bone.
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I rather like the effect of the broken tiles on the ground. |
To make the stone look more interesting I added a few strategic local washes of Nuln Oil, Reikland Fleshshade and Seraphim Sepia to different tiles. The grass and flowers are from
Gamers Grass.
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Gamers Grass makes flowers that serve to add some (non-skull) character to any base. |
All in all (I think) it makes for a nice looking base that was quick and easy to build.
Excellent, nice and easy. I´ve just finished my own ruined bridge for my own bloody hill. I hope posting some pics on my blog this week. There are many ways to make some nice and easy scenery. I used the tutorial of greenstuff.com Here´s the link if you want to take a look of it.
ReplyDeletehttp://www.greenstuffworld.com/creative/en/projects/208/#Foamed-PVC-ruins
Regards.
Thanks, that portal looks excellent. I think I'm going to try that tutorial soon to make a second Realmgate.
DeleteVery cool base, and it helps to match this older figure with the profile of the (naturally larger) new figure.
ReplyDeleteCheers, yes I think any Warboss worth his salt should tower over the rest of his army :)
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